All That Fuss: Tartine Bakery

What is the obsession with Tartine Bakery? A few nights ago D. brought back a few desserts and between bites, I reflected upon my many visits to one of my favorite bakeries. Settled amongst a scattering of artisan eateries, which draw hipsters to the San Francisco Mission District it has captivated a cult following of foodies and food critics. Never mind a guaranteed line and the indifferent service, the crowd keeps coming back and growing. Ultimately it has several points which rub the wrong way, but it'll win you over in the end.

STRIKES
It's unapologetic attitude permeates the establishment:
* The store front lacks a proper sign to locate the bakery. (Nevertheless it has a distinctive presence and if you're lucky enough not to be confronted by a queue looping around the block, look for its dark green awning and trimming.
* ALL the employees adopt a surly, brush-offish demeanor, which never actually reaches rudeness but also lacks a desired coziness from your 'favorite' neighborhood bakery. (That being said many customers are willing to venture much farther than simply from their neighborhood to frequent Tartine).
* The cafe au laits and croissants dare you to return for more - portion sizes don't cater to dainty nibblers i.e. the hefty price is about right for what you get. Still, I'd prefer my coffee in European demitasses - the perfect amount to stay hot through to the end.
* Bread comes out only after 5pm Wednesday to Sunday. Who's ever heard of a bakery without morning loaves? As mentioned, it maintains a "That's right b!tches, roll to my tune" stance.

Even so I confess to being an unsolicited, ardent evangelist for the bakery and have recommended it to all Mission-bound foodies I've come across.

UNDERNEATH THE BRISTLES
The atmosphere is superlative:
* Live local music played on Wednesday evenings, maybe around 7.
* Fresh white (always white) flowers grace the narrow coffee table by the doorway and another display inside the bathroom. Usually huge lilies or roses depending on the season.
* Beautiful wood furniture with a casual, rustic feel: communal tables, benches, chairs, counter tops...
* The eye-catching crowd is perfect for people watching.
* Stellar cookbook

WHEN IT COMES TO TASTE
It's really a hit or miss depending on personal preference. But I'll give my opinion anyway...

Hits:
- Vanilla Custard Eclair - classic runny custard trumps cream-filled choux. My only complaint, the bittersweet ganache topping is obtrusively thick to the delicate custard.
- Bread Pudding with Seasonal Fruit - only if you're a bread pudding person and love custardy things. Rich, warm comfort with caramel sauteed berries, apples, pears etc.
- Walnut Sourdough Bread - of all their breads this is the clear winner. Huge walnut chunks embedded in finger-scorching fluffy innards. This fresh from the oven is alone enough to merit a visit.
- (Bowl) of Hot Cocoa - Scharffen Berger cocoa. A perfected recipe. It hits the perfect balance of bitter cacao to milky sweetness.
- Flaky tart shells - The puff pastry kinds such as their Coconut Cream Tart.

Misses:
- Passion fruit Lime Bavarian - dense and somewhat dry. Indistinct flavor combination
- Double Chocolate Tea Cake - dry again. Benefits from fresh, softly whipped cream
- Pressed Sandwiches - Overpriced and nothing special. Flavor combinations don't always meld so well.
- Sweet pastry shell - Smooth, not puffy. The one used for their Lemon Cream Tart is hard to cut through.

CONCLUSIONS
I've been to Tartine many times and will go there again. Skeptics are fully entitled, but give it a go when you're in the area. Newcomers, bring a friend (or many) and share a few items and one drink amongst the group. Loyalists, well there's no need to say much more.

Tartine Bakery & Cafe
600 Guerrero Street San Francisco, CA
415.487.2600